Stockholm Guide
Stockholm Syndrome in the best possible way
As a follow-up to my Copenhagen Guide, here is my little black book for Stockholm. My husband Kevin and I spent five days here last July on our Scandi Summer trip. Known as the Venice of the North, (note: can we all agree to finally kill references to “Venice” and “Harvard” when describing a place?), due to its beautiful neighborhoods and waterways, Stockholm is built on a collection of 14 islands, each with their own character. Visitors are likely to spend most of their time in the neighborhoods of: Gamla Stan (historic old town), Norrmalm (hotels, shopping and bars), Östermalm (upscale shopping, dining and residential), Djurgården (a high concentration of museums surrounded by parkland), Södermalm (former working class neighborhood turned hipster area), Skeppsholmen (tiny island home to the wonderful Moderna Museet) and Kassetellet (quaint, 19th century castle). This newsletter is by no means meant to be an exhaustive guide, merely my highlights and best advice.
Meatballs and Biff Rydberg at Bakfickan. If it’s good enough for the king, it’s good enough for you.
Dining
Every year Sweden’s King Carl XVI Gustaf celebrates his birthday with a party at the Stockholm Opera House, followed by dinner downstairs at Bakfickan. The intimate restaurant in the “back pocket” of the opera house, serves classic Swedish dishes to 28 guests around a U-shaped bar or on its sidewalk patio in the summer. (If it’s not open, be sure to ask to see the adjacent private dining room with a draw-dropping stained glass ceiling.) Knowledgeable servers walked us through the menu and recommended the Biff Rydberg, a pan fried beef tenderloin served with diced potatoes, caramelized onions, egg yolk, Dijon mustard and horse radish, which is typically eaten mixed together. It is a unique flavor combination and absolutely delicious. Bakfickan’s version is based closely on the original recipe, which sets it apart from newer interpretations more commonly served in Stockholm. Bakfickan, which opened in 1962, doesn’t take reservations. If you are lucky, you may see the king; rumor has it he dines here several times a year.
Creative takes on summer’s freshest ingredients at the Herbarium at Rosendals Trädgård
Rosendals Trädgård on Djurgården is a farm-to-table wonderland that would impress Martha Stewart. The bucolic complex features a vegetable garden, orchard, flower garden, farm shop, artisan bakery (with the largest wood fired oven in Stockholm), plant shop and greenhouse cafe. During the summer, you can design and cut your own bouquet from among 50 different types of organic flowers and grasses. If you visit between June and August, treat yourself to dinner at the Herbarium , where the chefs set up an outdoor kitchen and guests watch as they prepare small plates using ingredients from the garden. At the nearby garden bar, patrons will find craft cocktails made with seasonal produce, such a rhubarb and lemon balm. A ping pong table and a pétanque court invite diners to stay awhile.
Stockholm is chock full of great coffee shops. You will have no trouble finding an attractive spot at which to take a fika. The traditional coffee break is an essential part of Swedish daily life. Be sure to put away your cell phone, sample a fresh-baked cardamom bun and enjoy the company of your travel companions.
Other favorites: Bar Agrikultur, Lilla Ego, Wedholms Fisk, Meatballs for the People, Gondolen, Calle P, Prospero , Stockholm 1897, Solen
The colorful buildings of Stortorget in Gamla Stan
To Do
It goes without saying that every first time visitor to Stockholm will want to spend at least some time exploring the winding, narrow streets of Gamla Stan, on the island of Stadsholmen. While it’s incredibly touristy, it’s also home to the Royal Palace, the Stockholm Cathedral and the Nobel Prize Museum (which we were slightly disappointed by) as well as quaint cafes and antique shops.
Vasa went unnoticed at the bottom of Stockholm’s harbor for 320 years
Similarly, most tourists will want to check out the museums of Djurgården. If you only have time for one, make it the Vasa Museum. The Vasa was a 64-gun warship that sank on her maiden voyage in 1628. Unbelievably, the hull was salvaged almost completely in tact, and the ship has been reassembled and is 98% original. The size and condition of the ship took my breath away the moment I entered the museum. When Vasa was brought up to the surface in 1961, it was a major, live TV event broadcast around the world. Today more than a million visitors a year come to see the Vasa and marvel at the engineering feat of Vasa’s recovery.
Lazy days on Vaxholm
Be sure to do a little island hopping while you are in Stockholm. The ferry system is an inexpensive, convenient and scenic way to see the peninsula. Kevin and I spent a delightful day on Vaxholm, where we wandered in and out of shops, sunbathed on the rocks and enjoyed a chilly swim. The chic set congregates at Vaxholms Hembygdsgårds Cafe, where cocktails and craft beers seem to go quite nicely with a table overflowing with tempting, homemade cakes and pastries. We ended our day with a dinner of fresh seafood and live music at Bistro Magasinet, which is also home to a yoga studio and a lovely design shop. Many of Vaxholm’s businesses close in the off-season. You will want to plan any island excursions around the seasons.
Shopping
Stockholm has the usual high-end designer shops in and around Birger Jarlsgatain (Norrmalm and Östermalm districts), many of which also have small boutiques in the iconic Swedish department store NK at Hamnagatan 18-20. My other favorite shopping destinations include:
If you want to pay homage to 2020s minimalist chic, the TOTEME Flagship at Biblioteksgatan 5 is a must-visit. Prices can be considerably lower than they are in US stores or at online retailers, so be sure to do your research in advance to make sure you get a good deal.
I’ve already gone on and on about Svenskt Tenn, the Swedish Design mecca. It’s a must-see in my opinion and centrally located at at Strandvägen 5.
The area of Södermalm known as SOFO (South of Folkungagatan to North of Ringvägen is packed with independent boutiques, galleries, secondhand shops, bars and cafes. You could easily make an afternoon of it. Concentrate on the intersection between Skångatan and Södermannagatan, and afterwards reward yourself with drinks at the Mosebacketerrassen rooftop beer garden with its panoramic view of the city (open in warmer months) or with dinner at the very popular Bar Agrikultur.
Thanks to H&M, the Swedes are significant players in the fast fashion industry, but to their credit, they also appreciate a secondhand store. There are dozens around Stockholm. I lost track of time in Arkivet, checking out gently used items by TOTEME, Zara, Acne, Ganni and other trendy, Scandi brands. There are several locations around the city.
The gym bathroom at the Nobis Hotel: history hidden in plain sight
Where to Stay
Kevin and I were so pleased by our stay at the Nobis Stockholm. It’s sleek and stylish with good-sized rooms. The location is phenomenal— steps away from great restaurants and shopping and within walking distance of historical sites and museums. The Nobis serves a fantastic breakfast buffet with lots of gluten-free and dairy-free options. Moreover, Nobis hotels are part of the Marriott chain, thus, you can earn/use points on your stay. As if that weren’t enough, the Nobis has an intriguing place in history.
The hotel is in a beautiful building, which once housed Kreditbanken. In August 1973 on Kreditbanken’s ground floor, Jan-Erik Olsson, a convicted man on parole, took four hostages during a bank robbery. After being released, the hostages defended Olsson and his co-conspirator and refused to testify in court against them, and the term “Stockholm Syndrome” was coined. The Nobis hotel staff is not going to tell you this secret, but I will. If you want to see a piece of history, go to the hotel’s gym and enter the gym’s bathroom. There on the marble floor, you will see several circles etched into the stone. This is where police drilled into the bank vaults to rescue the hostages.
The following hotels do not seem to have their own Wikipedia pages, but nevertheless, also came highly recommended: Grand Hôtel, Ett Hem, Lydmar and Hotel Diplomat
The Nobis Stockholm, full of secrets
Got your own Stockholm recommendations? Please share them in the chat. Tack!
Xoxo, Emily